The Art of Balance: Cool Climate/Maritime Wines in a Global Context

I recently attended a conference on August 4-7 at Stony Brook University Center for Wine, Food and Culture - Long Island, New York. The purpose was to obtain information on the balance of viticulture and winemaking in a cool climate. Major topics of the 2 day symposium included: Global Markets, Terroir and Soils, Albarino - a new Atlantic grape, and wine making - the art of balance. An additional day was spent touring the Cornell Cooperative Extension at Riverhead, Long Island with extension educator, Alice Wise. Several contacts for potential speakers for the Ontario Fruit and Vegetable Convention were made during the visit as well as networking with other research and extension specialists from Long Island, New York.

Long Island is a relatively new growing area in New York State which mainly focuses on higher end vinifera production. Over 30 wineries and 3000 acres of grapes are grown mainly on the north fork in Long Island. The main issues include disease and pest management, minimal inputs to reduce labour and marketing New York wines into a very competitive New York City market. Deer and bird issues are also of concern and some research is devoted to a bird netting trial using different nets. Nearly 100% of acres are netted due to the high bird pressures. Agricultural land prices are $50,000 per acre mainly due to housing pressure. Vineyard trellises are quite tall and leaf stripping around the cluster is performed fairly early in the season to enhance light exposure to properly ripen fruit clusters. Growing grapes is as challenging and competitive in Long Island as it is in Ontario.

Highlights

Alessio Dorigo - Dorigo Winery, Fruili Venezia-Guila, Italy

The winery is located northern Italy where some grapes are grown on the hillsides with harsh climate (windy and low humidity). The area also has poor soil with stony flat ground but the flat area is more mechanized. Quality worldwide is improving because competition is worldwide but customers still want something different, regional. Terroir determines the wines you can grow, but you need the balance - Wines you like versus wines you can sell. Terroir is influenced by soil, climate and man. History and experimenting help you decide what to plant.

Good bunches are perfectly ripe bunches and come from good terroir. You need 1.3 sq meters (14 sq ft) per plant, .5 to 3 kg per plant - 1 kg of fruit is good. High density plantings of 8000 plants/ha (3000 per acre) at 1.5 kg/plant can produce as high as 12 tonne per hectare which is a good balance. But, high density also means more labour and sometimes the quality is not there. Water is the most important consideration for grape production. Sampling for berry ripeness involves collecting 100 berries from 100 plants, but also tasting the berries. Hand harvest is the best since the berries remain intact.

Gunter Kuntsler - owner/winemaker Rheingau, Germany

Germany grows over 20,000 ha (61%) of Riesling out of 34,000 ha grown in Europe. The river gives Germany the micro climate while the mountains block north winds. The Rheingau region is the main area for Riesling with 80% of the production. It has a 2000 year old history with many south slopes, loamy soils, and water holding capacity. "Climate Change" in recent years has affected Riesling. It has been too dry or too wet with warmer temperatures. Terroir is something within the same farm because of soil. Other speakers; Thomas Laszlo Heron Hill Winery, Katie Alvarez - Winemaker at Rias Baixas, Spain, Steve Clifton - Brewer Clifton Winery, Santa Barbara County, California, Pascal Jolivet - Owner winemaking, Loire Valley, France, Eric Fry - Winemaker at Lenze Winery LI, and Jacques Hurton - Oenologist based in Bordeaux, France and Australia discussed "Terroir", varietals, marketing in their respective areas and the impacts of soil and climate on wine production.

Cornell Co-operative Extension Tour, Long Island - Alice Wise and Libby Tarleton

The 3 major focal areas at the Cornell facility are Clonal testing, Powdery mildew trials and a low maintenance mowing/herbicide trial.

Gazebo in the vineyard at Pellegrini Winery, Long Island, New York

| Top of Page |