Irrigation For Frost Protection Of Strawberries
Table of Contents
There's nothing colder than a strawberry field on a frosty spring night. Strawberry plants bravely bloom in early spring, often before the last frost. The blooms are close to the ground, and the ground, covered with straw, doesn't provide much heat. That's why many strawberry growers pull a few all-nighters each spring to run the irrigation system and use a thermodynamic principle to protect their crop from frost injury.
This paper will describe types of frost, frost injury, and how irrigation can be used to protect strawberry plants from frost injury.
Frost occurs when the temperature around the plant drops below 0°C (32°F). At this temperature, pure water forms ice crystals on surfaces which have fallen below the freezing point of water.
Plant sap is not pure water; therefore strawberries have a lower freezing point than 0°C (32°F). When the critical temperature (Table 1) is reached, crystals form and damage cell membranes allowing cell fluids to leak out.
Frost can kill flowers outright, or injure them enough to cause misshapen berries. When a flower is injured by cold, the pistils are killed first. If killed after pollination, then embryos do not develop. A seedy spot on the berry forms, with hollow seeds. Sometimes fruit cracks at the bottom. Leaves can also be injured by the frost, especially when they are growing vigorously and very tender. The edges or tips of leaves blacken, and then dry out.
Figure 1: Frost-injured strawberry bloom
Figure 2: Misshapen berries resulting from blooms which are partially damaged by frost
Figure 3: Frost injury on strawberry leaves
Frost usually damages the biggest and earliest bloom. This represents the best and most lucrative part of the berry crop, because prices are highest at the beginning of the season. Further, the first flowers to open produce the largest fruit. If 5 percent to 7 percent of the flowers are lost, and these flowers are mostly king bloom, the total crop will be reduced by 10 to 15 percent.
Bloom and flower parts are most susceptible to freezing temperatures.
These temperatures are tissue temperatures, and a degree or two
lower than the critical air temperature in the plant canopy. There
are many variables that affect the actual critical temperature for
a given plant and the amount of injury.
Cold conditions occur when heat is lost. Cold can not be added, only heat can be removed.
Heat can be transferred by
When water condenses, cools or freezes, the temperature around the water rises as latent heat is released. Water changing to ice on the surface of a plant will add heat to that plant. Conversely, when ice melts, or water evaporates, the temperature around the water is cooled, as heat moves to the water. Water evaporating from the surface of a plant will draw heat from that plant.
During the day, the sun warms the soil and solid objects, i.e. crops. When these objects become warmer than the air, they pass heat to the air by conduction. This warm air is less dense, and rises, and is replaced by cooler air from above. This mixing of air is how the lower atmosphere is warmed. Normally, air near the surface of the earth is warmer than the air above it. Crops also radiate heat to outer space. Some of this energy is reflected back to the earth by clouds and C02 in the atmosphere.
At night, there is no incoming radiation from the sun. If the atmosphere is clear, there is little heat reflected back to earth. The soil and crops continue to radiate energy out to space. Temperatures drop near the earth's surface, forming a layer of air that is colder at the bottom and warmer at the top. If a wind or breeze is present, the warm air and cooler air are mixed. But on a still night, especially when the air is dry, the air temperature at ground level is coolest, and the temperature increases with height up to a certain level. Because this situation is the opposite of normal daytime conditions, the term inversion is used to describe these conditions.
Objects can radiate heat faster than the air around them. Frost can form on the roof of a building or the hood of a car when air temperatures are still a degree or two above zero. Strawberry blooms can also radiate heat quite quickly on a clear night.
Although the terms "frost" and "freeze" are used interchangeably, they describe two distinct types of cold events.
An advective, or windborne freeze, occurs when a cold air mass moves into the area, and brings freezing temperatures. Significant wind occurs as the cold front moves in. the thickness of the cold air layer is 500-5000 feet deep. It is difficult to protect crops from frost injury when these conditions occur.
A radiation frost, occurs when a clear sky and calm winds allow an inversion to develop and temperature near the surface of the earth drop below freezing. The thickness of the cold air inversion is 30-200 feet (with warm air above).
Air temperatures referred to in weather reports and forecasts are measured 5 feet above the ground. Temperatures can be much colder at ground level and even colder in the low parts of the field. Cloud cover and wind speeds are also important factors to consider when determining the risk of frost.
Use max/min thermometers to monitor the low temperatures in your fields. Compare these to the forecast lows. In cloudy breezy weather, forecast lows are likely to be similar to the observed low in a region. On clear calm nights, especially in a strawberry field, the observed low can be much lower than the forecasted low.
You can also use max/min thermometers to compare the temperatures at several locations on your farm on a given night. After several observations you will know just how much colder each field is compared to your back yard. A frost alarm can be installed in a convenient location if you know how much colder it gets in the field.
Cold air is heavier than warm air, and it sinks and flows across a field like water. It also piles up where obstructions block its flow to a lower area. Road banks, hedge rows, berms are examples of obstructions to cold air flow. Cold air will drain from elevated areas, to lower storage areas, such as a large body of water. Strawberry fields on sloping fields, or in generally elevated areas, are less prone to frost damage. Be aware of frost pockets within the field.
Remove obstructions at the lower end of the field to improve air drainage. Windbreaks should be designed to slow the wind, not block all air movement. To allow air drainage through a windbreak about 50% air space at the bottom of the windbreak is recommended.
Soil moisture and compaction can have a significant effect on temperature. A moist compact soil will store more heat than a loose dry soil and therefore has more heat to transfer to the crop at night. Cultivation just before a frost can increase the risk of injury, because the soil is looser and drier after cultivation. Soil under a grassy cover crop will hold more heat if the grass is mowed short.
Most growers rely on sprinkler irrigation for frost protection. When water from sprinklers turns to ice, the heat released protects the plant from injury. As long as a thin layer of water is present, on the bloom or on the ice, the blossom is protected. (This is important. It's not the layer of ice that provides the protection. It's the water constantly freezing that keeps the temperature above the critical point.)
For example: For 1 acre, you need about 60 gallons per minute, to irrigate 0.125 inch/acre/hr. This is 3600 gallons per hour. If irrigation is required for 10 hours, you need 36000 gallons per night. Plan to irrigate for several nights in a row.
Figure 4: Sprinkler used for frost protection with back nozzle plugged
The amount of water applied per hour is based on the amount of wind and the temperature (Table 4). Higher water application rates are required on windy nights, or when humidity is low because considerably more energy is removed when a gram of water evaporates than is added when a gram of water freezes (Table 2). A rate of 0.1 inch/hour is considered adequate to protect to -4.4°C (24°F) with no wind. When the water is frozen on the plant the ice should be clear, which indicates that there was enough water applied. If the ice is cloudy or milky white, the water application rate is not fast enough to protect the flower (Figure 5). In this case you can increase the water application rate by reducing the sprinkler spacing or changing to higher flow rate nozzles. At wind speeds above 16 km/hr or at temperatures below -6.7°C (20°F) sprinkler irrigation can do more harm than good because of rapid freezing.
Figure 5: Strawberry bloom coated in clear ice
To successfully use irrigation for frost protection, growers need information about the dew point. Dew point is especially important in determining the irrigation start-up point.
The dew point is the temperature at which moisture condenses from the air to form dew. The dew point is related to relative humidity: when the air is humid the dew point occurs at a higher temperature than when the air is dry. Once dew begins to form, the air temperature begins to drop more slowly. When temperatures reach freezing, the dew turns to frost.
Dew points are available from agricultural weather forecasts, e.g.
Growers can use dew points to estimate how quickly the temperature might drop in any given night. Once dew begins to form, the air temperature drops more slowly because heat is released. Frequently, the nighttime temperature drops to the dew point, but not much below it. Sometimes the dew point is referred to as the basement temperature.
If the air is dry, then the dew point will be low. If the dew point is below 0°C (32°F), frost forms instead of dew. Black frosts occur when temperatures are below freezing but above the dew point. Don't wait for frost to form before starting the irrigation system (especially when the humidity is low).
Table 5: Suggested starting temperatures for irrigation, based on dew point. The lower the dew point, the sooner you should start to irrigate.
Sometimes the term wet bulb temperature is used to determine when to start up irrigation systems. The wet bulb temperature represents the temperatures a wet surface will cool to as the water evaporates. A wet bulb thermometer is covered with clean muslin soaked in distilled water. Air is passed over the bulb; the water evaporates, reducing the temperature around the thermometer.
If wet bulb temperatures are available, these can be used directly to determine when irrigation should begin, and when the system can be shut off. Start irrigation just before the wet bulb temperature reaches the critical temperature (Table 1).
Irrigation can be stopped when ice on the plants begins to melt, usually after sunrise. Monitor carefully to make sure that the ice continues to melt and the temperature remains above freezing. Changes in wind speed could change temperatures near the plant surface. Irrigation should be started up again if water begins to freeze.
Ice does not have to be completely melted. The plant temperature will warm up as the sun rays hit the field. When the ice can be sloughed off the plant, you know that plant temperatures are above freezing and the water next to the pant has started to melt. At this point, you can turn off the irrigation water, usually around 7:30 or 8 am.
The best way to know when to turn off the irrigation is to monitor plant tissue temperatures beneath the ice. Digital thermometers, attached to thermocouples inserted into the plant tissue can indicate when plant temperatures begin to warm up above the critical temperature.
One negative side effect of irrigation for frost protection is increased potential for disease outbreaks. Angular leaf spot is a bacterial disease that is spread by splashing rain or irrigation, and seems to get established in frosty conditions. Anthracnose, which can cause fruit rot, generally likes warm humid weather. However, even during cool periods, it will spread by water splashing on the plants and, after establishing itself, it will thrive when warm weather arrives (Figure 6).
Root rots, such as red stele, thrive in saturated soil conditions. Outbreaks of red stele and other root rots have occurred after long periods if irrigation for frost protection. The sites most suited for frost protection by irrigation are well drained sites with sand or sandy loam soils.
Figure 6a: Angular leaf spot
Figure 6b: Anthracnose fruit rot
Figures 6a, 6b: Splashing water can spread diseases like angular leaf spot and anthracnose fruit rot
Figure 7a: Standing water and water-saturated soil in a strawberry field
Figure 7b: Water-saturated soils favour root diseases such as red stele.
Disease and fungus can be limited by reducing the water applied.
Water volumes can be reduced by:
Row covers reduce evaporative cooling and the rate of cooling under the cover. According to vendor's information, the heavier weight covers (1.5-2 oz/yd2) can protect 4-6 degrees, but this varies both with the weight and between manufacturers. They do buy time on a frosty night.
When frost protecting with irrigation and row covers, you need to know plant temperature under the cover. Start when temperatures under the cover drop to 0.6 - 1.1°C. Irrigate right over the cover. Stop when plant temperatures start to climb. Digital thermometers attached to thermocouples, inserted in the flower buds before the frost event, are necessary for successful protection with covers.
Research suggests that 2 layers of 1 oz cover provide more protection than 1 layer of 2 oz material. Research on the use of low impact sprinklers, i.e. mini-wobblers, is in progress. These sprinklers, widely used in the ornamental industry, wet a smaller diameter, use lower pressures, and are less prone to freezing. By using irrigation and row covers it may be possible to frost protect in adverse conditions.
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